Review of Pioneer DEH-6900UB iPod-Ready HU

pioneerdeh-6900_small.jpgFor my birthday a couple of weeks ago I got the new DEH-6900UB head unit from Pioneer for my GTI. In anticipation of getting the new HU, I bought a new 12″ sub and mounted it in a old Q-Logic box, ran some 4 gauge wire to my hatch, and dug out an old 300W amp. This way I could rip out the stock HU and install the new one along with the sub and amp all in one shot. Now that I’ve played around with the new deck for a couple of weeks, I thought I’d write up what I like and what I don’t like. Overall this is a great head unit. One of my main reasons for choosing it for me was the direct USB iPod compatibility. This HU works using the original white USB cable that came with my iPod – no adapters required. And if you don’t have an iPod it will accept any USB-compatible device up to 250GB in size. The 6900UB has a clean front panel with very few buttons, thank goodness for the remote however which adds a few that are sometimes necessary, such as quick-attenuation and pause. It also allows you to adjust the volume while in the Audio mode adjusting settings without going back out into the main display. The one big knob on the front does just about everything: it rotates left-right, it clicks up and down and clicks left and right and pushes in. It takes some getting used to, I’ve found the remote is almost easier to navigate, and it has a little wheel-type button as well that replicates the actions of the main knob. But the clean look is very attractive and the OEL display is very nice. Although it’s blue, it’s not an exact match to the blue in my ’04 GTI. During the day you’d never notice since the dash lights aren’t on, and it’s basically blue which is the factory color for the instrument lights, so for the most part it matches. At night it’s a different story and the blue lights from the dash are much more purple than the bright whiter blue of the display. It’s not too bad, at least the whole display is just the one color, blue, so it’s not like there are green/red/orange buttons to worry about trying to match and looking ugly too. It would be nice if it matched better, but once you pull out the factory radio, you might as well accept that your car isn’t going to have that stock look anymore. At least that stock sound is gone, or mostly.

Changing out the factory radio in the GTI makes a HUGE difference. It sounded like an AM radio compared to this new HU, even with the stock speakers. One feature I love about the 6900UB is the built-in crossover for the integrated 22×4 amp. I’ve got the stock components being powered by the deck right now (until I get another amp to drive my sub) and since the stock speakers have no bass whatsoever, it makes no sense to tax the HU trying to run lots of bass to them. So with the click of the master knob, I can turn on a high-pass filter to my 2 pairs of components and set it to cut off below 50, 63, 80, 100, or 125Hz. This way the HU can play just a little bit louder before distorting since it’s not trying to play any of the power-hungry bass. And this is typical of a multi-amp setup one might do. In addition, the sub-out also has a built-in low-pass filter which can be adjusted at the click of the big wheel. So in my case I’ve set the amp in the back to full-range mode and let the HU control the x-over frequency. This is great since it allows you to dial in just the right amount of upper bass from the driver’s/listening seat, instead of being hunched over in the trunk of you car with a flathead screwdriver trying to decide where to set the crossover point. After much messing with these two adjustments, I’ve settled on a 100Hz point for the sub and 50Hz for the front/rear components. This way the sub has the right amount of bass across the entire low frequency region, it doesn’t just play super low bass, and I get some overlap from the 6″ components in the cabin without running them too hard. There’s not an obvious “gap” in the response as the sound transitions from the subs to the other speakers. I’m not sure the stock speakers can play much below 100Hz anyway, but setting the x-over any higher created that separation effect in the music, or gap, like the sub and the components are in two different places or too far apart. The blend is perfect at the 100Hz/50Hz split.

Anyway, enough about that, onto how well this thing integrates with the iPod. Most people complain about the speed of connectivity with iPod-ready head units, accessing songs, artists and playlists just takes too long to be useful. However the Pioneer unit talks to the iPod wonderfully and just as quickly as you can spin and click that main knob. The iPod controls become dormant once the unit is connected and a cool little Pioneer logo shows up on the front. Nice touch. The main knob then does all the controlling and mimics the click wheel on the iPod itself, although not near as good nor near as fast. If you’ve got a lot of songs, say a 30GB iPod filled to the max, then finding individual songs can take some time, and a lot of rotating of this knob, especially if the song is by an artist whose name isn’t either at the beginning or the end of the alphabet. Accessing a Morrissey tune for example took me 1 minute 15 seconds and I was spinning the knob as fast as I could, unfortunately it only clicks through one artist/song/playlist per soft “click” of the wheel so it takes a lot of spinning. Had I been doing that while driving, I probably would have crashed. It’s actually quicker to just press down on the knob repeatedly rather than spin it. But the HU talks to the iPod just as fast as it can, it’s the knob that slows you down. Once you pick a song, it plays immediately. And then after all that clicking, unlike he iPod which when you go back to select a new artist will go back to Morrissey and let you scroll around from there, the Pioneer deck starts over at square one, artist A, so you’re back to endless scrolling to get to say a New Order song. This honestly isn’t a big deal for me since I usually just hit Shuffle All and let it play for weeks on end. I think Alpine has the right idea by splitting up the scrolling into 6 subcategories so you can basically jump from the A’s to the M’s in just two or three clicks instead of hundreds. For this HU however, you could just make several playlists that have the artists A-E, F-J, K-O, etc. and then accessing a favorite band would be much quicker. It just takes some creativity on your part to make a few key playlists that are useful to the accessing options of the Pioneer deck, even if they aren’t really playlists so to speak. UPDATE: I tried this technique, so-called, and it doesn’t work, so it’s back to drawing board.

Bottom line the deck is sweet. The OEL is nice and has some fancy little “entertainment” options as they call it, from moving waves to bubbles to a pair of analog style VU meters bouncing only slightly out of sync to the beat. I usually just keep it on the default background with the artist and song title showing. One thing the deck has turned on by default that drove me insane is what they call Reversing. Where the display inverts, every 10 seconds – super annoying when you’re driving at night, it’s constantly getting brighter every time it “reverses”. At least you can turn it off, which once I figured out how to do it, it got turned off for good. (See the comments below to learn how to turn it off). The 7-band EQ is nice, allowing you to dial in just the right amount bass, midbass, midrange, treble and upper highs. I’ve basically got it set up to be a smiley face. A little more bass, and a little more treble. Not to mention I’ve got the loudness set to HIGH which boosts the lows and highs by a massive +12dB. These stock speakers really do suck, but with a boat-load of EQ, they can sound half-way decent. Although the sibilance is enough to make one go deaf. But that’s typical of crappy tweeters and over-EQ’ing, not to mention playing mp3’s. Yes, it’s all a very bad formula for crappy sound. But for the most part it sounds okay. The bass sounds really good though. I’ve only got 150W (50×4 bridged to 150×1 with the other 2 channels unused) going to the one dB-500 12″ sub but it’s got plenty of thump, it plays super deep, and doesn’t quite drown out the stock 22×4 amp powering the components. But I’ve also got it dialed down pretty low. The gain on the amp is set almost all the way to MIN. Mainly because the HU allows for quite a huge range of sub level output, from -24 to +6. I’ve got it set to 0 and then if a song has too much bass I can dial it down to -3 or so, and if I want a little more, I can dial it up to +3 or +4. I’ve also got the sub set to invert polarity (reverse they call it) since when doing A/B comparisons, reversed appeared to sound smoother and blended with the other speakers better, and had more bass.

So there’s my massively long-winded review of the Pioneer DEH-6900UB which took me just about as long to write as it took me to install.

Pros:
Sounds great, 22×4 plays plenty loud even on stock speakers
Direct iPod integration w/o needing expensive extra cables/adapters
7-band EQ w/2 custom settings
OEL display visible in almost any light
Bass adjustment with just 1 button
4V RCA outs for front, rear and sub
Built-in crossover for high and low-pass
Plays DRM-encrypted .aac files (from iPod only)

Cons:
Accessing songs/artists is time consuming and difficult if you have lots of songs on your iPod
Artist List starts over every time you access it with no memory of ‘where you last were’
Display color may clash with some cars’ interior colors
Entertainment background options kind of cheesy (but kind of cool too)
Cannot access or watch videos/pictures on iPod while connected to HU

My Dash Torn to Pieces
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Soldered Wires from Factory Harness Adapter to Pioneer Connector
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Head Unit Installed with iPod Stashed in the Compartment Below
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TC Sounds dB-500 12″ Sub
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Battery-to-Hatch Installation of 4 Gauge Wire: GTI

4 Gauge Cable Kit After 6 months of listening to the crappy stock stereo in my GTI, I finally broke down, bought some new gear and have begun the fun process of upgrading. I’ve got a new head unit on the way, but before getting to that I wanted to post about how I installed the 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the hatch location for powering up my amps. This can be a pain to do in some cases and with some cars, but in the GTI is actually really easy. I tried to take as many pictures as possible to show how I did it. This is by no means the only way, or even the best way to do it, but this is how I did it, and it only took a couple of hours to complete.

I bought a Street Wires 4 gauge amp install kit from Parts Express (who else?) which comes with almost everything you need to hook up as much as 800 watts worth of amplifiers. Not that I need that much, or even have that much power, yet, but I do want the option to get some new amps in the future, and in reality it’s just running the wire that’s the hard part, it doesn’t make much difference how thick it is, so might as well go as heavy as reasonable. Once you start getting into 2 and 1 gauge wires it’s probably more difficult, but I’ve never installed anything heavier than 4 gauge, and for most people, this is sufficient.

There is an unused hole in the firewall of the GTI just above the gas pedal from the inside, and above the master brake cylinder from under the hood. It’s plugged with a rubber grommet which can easily be removed by poking a screwdriver up through it. I’m not sure how big the hole is, I should have measured the grommet while I had it out, but it’s not much bigger than the diameter of the 4 gauge cable. I drilled a hole in the grommet and ran the cable back through it and down the hole and into the car and then seated the grommet nice and snug back in the hole. I left about 2 feet at the battery to hook up the fuse and for routing.

Once inside I ran the cable as high up and over the gas, brake and clutch pedals so as to not interfere. There’s plenty of room for routing the cable down the left front kick panel area and then down to the floor/door runner panel (is that what those are called? I have no idea). Getting these panels off requires pulling off the hood popper and then popping off the panel. It’s held in by one panel fastener in the middle, and one on the runner panel. It’s also held in around the door stripping. The base panels also pop off, with a screwdriver underneath at about every 8″ it comes right up, but not completely off. I ran the cable between the frame and the thick carpet padding underneath the runners instead of trying to run it below where the rest of the electrical cables are. It seemed like more of a pain for little value added. With the runners snapped back in place, that huge cable is completely out of view.

I couldn’t figure out how to remove the rear side panel, so I just managed to fish the cable up though it enough to get it behind the seat and into the hatch area. I did have to remove the rear seat cushion, which just pops out by squeezing the retaining locks and pulling it out. I ended up running the cable up the high-side of the back seat and coming out up top right into the emergency/first aid kit/CD changer compartment. Although my amp won’t fit in there, I just brought it to that location for the time being. And that’s about it. Back up under the hood I finished off the installation with a 100A fuse holder and bolted the cable right to the positive battery clamp using the bolt that tightens it to the battery. The cable came installed with a large ring terminal which fit right over the bolt for the battery clamp and makes a nice connection to the hot side of the battery. I sanded down the portion of the clamp that the ring terminal makes contact with as well as the washer on the other side of the ring terminal, just to ensure good electrical contact. The cable then follows the starter cable out the side of the battery cover, to the fuse which is mounted on the side of the battery cover, and then over it goes through the firewall, and the rest I already covered.

So that’s it in a nutshell how to install a 4 gauge power cable from the battery to the hatch of a GTI. Next week I’ll be hooking up the amp, the sub, the new head unit, and the patch cables from the HU to the amp. Until the, here’s some pics of the install.

4 Gauge Cable and 100A Fuse Holder Connected to Battery
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Location of Hole in the Firewall for Running the Cable
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Cable Through the Firewall Just Above the Master Brake Cylinder
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Cable in Car Through the Firewall Just Above the Gas Pedal
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Cable Tucked Away Behind Left Panel
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Cable Running Under Floor/Door Runner Panel Things
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Final Desitation of Cable in Hatch Area
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TC Sounds dB-500 in Sealed Box
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In the Market for a Laptop

dell1505lap.jpg So I’ve been thinking about getting a laptop for the past few months and am getting closer to making a decision on something here soon. I initially wanted to buy one before Vista was released, I would much rather have XP then Vista at this point. Mainly because I’ve been using Vista on my home PC periodically, and given the exact same set of hardware, XP runs much smoother than Vista does, and laptops typically are already slower, that last thing I need is Vista slowing it down even more. Since I missed the boat on getting XP (unless I buy something older from Newegg where many laptops still have XP) I’ve been trying to gauge which laptops are going to work well based on their Vista Performance Rating Score. I’ve to Best Buy and Circuit City and Costco in the last month and the first thing I look at is the Performance Rating and then I can compare them all against some known value. My home PC got a score of 4.4. I can’t remember what the individual CPU and graphics scores were, but my old Radeon 9800 Pro gets a 5.7 and it runs Vista’s overly-graphic UI without any problems. What bothers me about the majority of big-chain laptops (HP, Toshiba, Acer, etc.) is they all have integrated graphics (such as the GMA950) which get a performance index rating of 2.0 or less. I guess I should mention that I’m trying to keep this laptop in the $800 region. Nothing for gaming, but I don’t want integrated graphics, I mean, just in case I do pop in a game, I want it to at least work. So it’s hard to get a good performance rating for that kind of money. In fact, for $1000 most laptops fall in the overall rating of about 3.1, typically with the graphics card dragging down the score the most. Oddly enough, the CPU ratings don’t seem to change much whether it’s a Core 2 Duo T7200 or an AMD Sempron 3500+, which surprised me, considering the cost increase for the better CPU’s is a lot, not to mention the real-world performance improvement. When configuring laptops online, it’s just about the biggest cost jump you can do, next to adding more and faster RAM, or a bigger 7200rpm hard drive. So why doesn’t Vista show that in the ratings? I could be wrong, this is all from memory, I’ve looked at 50 different laptops or so, and trying to remember the specs on them all is harder when I don’t write anything down.

However I will say this, I’ve been watching the deals going on at Dell.com for a while, and from what I have seen, Dell offers the most hardware for laptops in the $800-$1200 range. This isn’t always the case, OfficeMax is selling super cheap Acer laptop with an older AMD MK-36 CPU, ATI 1150 graphics, 120GB HDD for only $599, which you can’t configure the same laptop at Dell for less than about $740. And a friend at work configured an HP laptop in the $1700 for quite a bit cheaper than he said Dell would have offered. But in the price range I’m looking, I can’t find anything better than what Dell has to offer. But it varies, and it drives me crazy. Every week, or possibly every day, or depending on how you enter the site (through an external link with a coupon code, or a code from the paper) two laptops configured the same way will vary by as much as $200-$300. So I’m worried that no matter what I buy, if I had just configured it differently, a coupon may have been able to be applied, and then it would have been cheaper. So each week, I watch, and I wait. And I’ve actually been tracking the different deals in a spreadsheet to see where the trends are. A month ago 80GB hard drives came standard, now they’re throwing in 120GB hard drives for free and free DVD burners, probably because all the other guys started doing it to, and Dell has to at least keep up with the competition. I haven’t seen the prices come down so much, as I’ve seen manufacturer’s just throw in extra stuff, or free upgrades, which in effect gets you a better laptop for the same money. The X1400 graphics cards are upgrades this week from the X1300 cards of last week. There’s part of me wants to buy something for cheap, like sub-$500 to surf the net in the living room and do whatever just to have a laptop. That was until I played around on a laptop that cheap, it had a Celeron M processor, and I about died while clicking around waiting and waiting for stuff to happen, not to mention it got a Vista rating of 1.0. Sheesh, they should stop shipping older laptops like that with Vista pre-installed and just put XP on it. The end user would benefit much more from a standard OS than something the hardware can’t handle. I would just install Ubuntu if I were to go that route. But I plan on installing it anyway on whatever I do get. Even Dell still offers their Business Laptops with either XP home or Professional.

Anyway, today’s paper came and the deal this week that looks really good, by far the best deal I’ve seen in this price range, can be found by going to www.dell.com/fsitaz and picking the Inspiron E1505. It’s $313 off the regular price and comes configured with: C2D T5200 1.6GHz, 15.4 1280×800, 1GB 533MHz, 120GB HDD, DVD/CD burner, 256MB ATI Mobility X1400, 9-cell li-on, all for $889. I’m about to jump and take the dive on this one, but I’ll probably wait it out, see if something better comes up next week. Which it might, in a case like this, it never hurts to wait. I’d really, really like to get 2GB of RAM, but it pushes the cost over the $1k mark I’m trying to stay under. (OfficeMax has a Toshiba right now for $999 with nearly identical specs but has 2GB of memory. But I can’t stand Toshiba.) So this is one of the best deals I’ve seen for a C2D (albeit the slowest of the C2D, it’s still better than any of the dual core AMD chips) with a dedicated X1400 graphics card. The 9-cell battery is a bonus too, a lot of laptops come with 6-cell or even 4-cell batteries, and almost invariably when you read about these laptops online, people complain about not being to get through one full-length movie without the battery dying. Well sure, a 4-cell battery isn’t going to last long no matter what you’re doing. If you want the long battery life, you have to pay for a decent battery. I don’t want a laptop that only runs for 2 hours either before needing a recharge. Not only that, but I want to get a decent laptop (not just an expensive one), and I really like the Dell’s. For whatever reason that may be, cost, styling, performance, or even the cool factor of owning a Dell, part of me just wants to get a Dell. And once you’re set on something, it’s hard to get derailed from that train of thought sometimes.

UPDATE: 4/16/07 – This deal has since expired, but until tomorrow you can configure an Inspiron 6400 with identical specs but upgraded to 2GB of RAM and XP or Vista for only $903. That’s an extra gig of memory for only $14. Now that’s a deal.

Update 5/14/07 – Inspiron 6400, CD T2350 1.86GHz, XP Home, 2GB, 80GB HDD, 256MB GeForce Go 7300, 6-cell battery all for $699. That’s a $379 savings off the regular price. This is a very good deal for only $700 considering the extra memory, dedicated card and Core Duo processor. Jumping up to a C2D processor and a 9-cell battery is about $110 more.

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The Perfect Thing and the iPod

thperfectthing.jpg I just finished reading a very interesting book called The Perfect Thing – How the iPod shuffles Commerce Culture and Coolness by Steven Levy. For anyone who owns an iPod (or two, or three) and is even remotely interested in how the iPod came to be, should definitely read this book. Levy goes into great detail discussing the many events, conversations, technological advances and pivotal moments in key people’s lives that happened at the turn of the century that paved the way to the creation of the iPod. Not just that but he goes on about how the iPod has created a culture, a society of music lovers, embracing their music in a way never before possible, and with ease. With the iPod it’s not just about listening to your favorite bands, but it’s about the emotion evoked by shuffling your iPod and allowing the iPod to mix and match songs randomly creating and making any mood which it seems fit for that moment.

Interestingly enough, the order of the chapters in the book are also based on this shuffle theory, and are randomly placed in the book when its bound. So no two books will start out with or end with the same chapter. Hey, that’s different. Even still, the book I had seemed to follow a perfect pattern of telling the tail that is the history and revolution of the iPod. The whole book was utterly fascinating, I loved hearing the story of how Apple approached the music companies with the idea to sell music, via the iTunes Music Store, and how at the time file sharing was so common-place, people could get music for free, why on earth would they pay for it? The music companies were suing everyone who even thought about using their content in a way that they believed violated their rights as content owners. And now Apple had a plan to legally sell their music, but it took some heavy convincing still that this was a good idea for the music companies. Now after a billion downloads and counting, now the music industry is upset that Apple literally owns the download market (since when was downloading songs from Wal*Mart cool anyway?). Can those guys ever be happy?

Anyway, Levy does a great job with this book, and now every time I pick up my iPod and go for a drive, I think about how this little wonder-of-a-piece of hardware and software was developed and created and how it has changed the way I listen to music. I still prefer to listen to a CD at home or buy a CD at a real store over iTunes, but it doesn’t stop me from enjoying my music on my iPod in the car, on the computer, or at work and being able to shuffle all songs for the ultimate mix that plays only the good songs, and won’t repeat a tune for months. Do I have gripes about the iPod? Sure I do, but for me it’s the best portable music player available and even though I could care less about being cool (there’s an entire chapter in this book devoted to why the iPod is the definition of cool), it’s more about functionality, ease of use as well as the seamless integration with iTunes and its ability to organize the plethora of songs I have stored on my hard drive.

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TC Sounds 12″ dB-500 Has Arrived

My 12″ dB-500 subwoofer arrived today, and man this thing is mighty! The aluminum cone looks very nice and the thick rubber surround is going to just bounce to the beat. I’m actually undecided at this point whether or not the sub is going to go into my GTI or whether it’s going to be for the home theater. It’s a tough choice since I think the sub is ideally suited for either application; small sealed box, or moderately large parted box. Either way I’m sure I’ll be happy with it. The stereo in my VW is stock now, but I have plans to get one of the new Alpine decks, like the CDA-9883 with the fast iPod interface. I’ve got a 50×4 amp sitting in my bedroom, haven’t had the need (or the will) to break down the interior of my car to get a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the hatch, not to mention the 3 pairs of RCA cables. It just seems like a lot of work, and I just barely got the car so it’s still new to me, and having everything stock is good, it’s clean, and it works, although the stock stereo is absolute crap. I’m hoping that with just a new deck it will sound a little better with the stock component speakers, because it’s the easiest thing to change out. I’m thinking about getting a set of PE Reference 4 ohm 6″ speakers to replace the stock ones, since they are inexpensive but should sound way better than the cheap paper cones that are in there now. I’ve got the 8 ohm Reference Series 6″ and they sound really good, what little I’ve listened to them.

Anyway, whether the sub ends up in my car or in the house, you’ll be sure to find all the details and lots of pics right here. Starting out with a few pics of this sweet sub. Aside from the weak stamped steal frame, there is nothing but superb workmanship throughout the design and assembly of this driver. It’s going to bump and it’s going to move some serious air. Can’t wait…

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CD Wallet Holds 416 CD’s but Zero Playlists

The CD wallet versus the iPod: they both store music, but in two entirely different ways. I bought a CD case on eBay last week that holds 416 CD’s and went through all my CD’s tonight, pulled them out of their cases and put each one into its own sleeve inside the the new case; I filled 414 spots, it took me 2 hours. After I was done I had a pile of empty CD cases that spread halfway across my living room floor. The CD case now weighs 15 pounds and is 7″ thick. It’s an absolute beast and contains every CD I’ve ever purchased. By contrast my iPod weighs 4.8 ounces, is only .43″ thick and contains even more music than can be stored in that massive CD case. My iPod cost $299, that CD case cost me $25 bucks. It’s all relative I suppose. The CD’s sound far better on my 2-channel stereo than my iPod does, which goes without saying. But lugging around 414 CD’s in my car, on an airplane, or into work just sort of doesn’t make much sense, does it? Even though I love my iPod, I’d rather listen to an actual CD on the pair of speakers I spent months designing and building than listen to some compressed, lossy version of what used to be a decent recording of a song. I only wish over the years I had kept better care of my CD’s, since so many of them are scratched beyond repair and skip endlessly. I used to be so particular about keeping such good care of them, when I was younger, but as I’ve gotten older I’ve just grown lax about caring for them. Anyway, now that I’ve bought the case, hopefully I can keep them from getting scratched any worse and I can enjoy the great sound that only CD’s can offer. Only it takes me 10 minutes to find the CD I want, instead of just a few seconds and a couple of clicks. Ah, but it’s worth it for that great CD-quality sound.

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