I’ve had a pair of Swans M3 speakers since around the year 2000 – that was 24 years ago as of this writing – they were one of the first pair of really nice speakers I had ever built at that time and were also some of the first speakers to adorn my budding web page called Audio Innovation. I have enjoyed these speakers over the years and they have truly served me well. Whether they were set up for dedicated two-channel listening or as part of a home theater, they have always sounded great. Until a few months ago I started to notice some buzzing from one of the speakers. Upon further inspection I noticed that one of the woofer’s voice coil was rubbing and creating sort of a scratching sound. It was not super obvious, so I didn’t bother with it too much. A while later I noticed that a second woofer was also starting to rub. Okay, so that makes two. Not to mention this also happened in a different pair of speakers I had built around the same time with the W6 woofers. Which I rebuilt with a pair of Dayton Audio RS180s.
I started to consider what it might take to replace the four W6 woofers with something more modern, something newer, something better. As I was researching woofers, I thought I would go ahead and disassemble the speakers and check everything else, make sure there wasn’t something else I needed to replace. I ran a few FR sweeps in REW and that’s when I realized that both of the F5 midrange’s surrounds had broken away and completely separated from the frame! At least 1/3 of the entire surround was completely floating and not connected to anything. Okay, so that has to be fixed. That’s when I turned my focus to the RT1C-A ribbon tweeter. I could see something weird inside the grill on one of them, so I pulled it apart and to my surprise found that the long rectangular magnets on both the frontside and backside had completely disintegrated, turned to basically magnetic dust. Upon disassembly of the other tweeter, the same fate had fallen it, although not quite to the same degree. So if you want to know how long a pair of Swans M3 speakers last, it’s basically less than 24 years. The woofers were toast, the midranges had fallen apart and the tweeters had returned to their natural magnetic form. Dang, this project this got a lot more complicated, but also, a lot more interesting.
So how do you rebuild a pair of Swans M3 speakers in 2024? As it turns out, quite easily actually. HiVi still manufactures and sells both the F5 midrange and the RT1C-A ribbon tweeter. Sadly the W6 woofer is no longer in production. But this is a great start as 1/2 of the drivers are still available, they can be replaced outright without changing anything with the cabinets or the crossover. I had drawn up some different options with other midranges and other tweeters, but felt it changed the classic Swans M3 look that was just so classic of the time back in 2000. If I really wanted to use completely new drivers, I should just go ahead and build a whole new pair of speakers. I wanted to fix these speakers while still maintaining that great look that I’ve grown so accustomed to over the last 24 years. The trick was going to be finding a good woofer that matched the old woofers, but also matched the look and feel of the speakers overall. I tossed around the idea of theDayton Audio RS180s, which I have already in at least 2 other pairs of speakers, so I was sort of tired of building speakers with those drivers again. The newer Signature Series with the flat aluminum dish cones looked like great alternates, but they only offer them in 4 ohm versions. Which would have meant wiring them in series, for an overall less efficient speaker, meaning a completely new crossover and not just for the woofers, but for the mids and tweeters as well. I wasn’t in the mood to completely redesign this thing, so I narrowed my search to only 8-ohm drivers, just like the W6s, so I could wire them in parallel for a 4-ohm load and at least keep most of the crossover in tact (though I would later end up tweaking the crossover anyway, while keeping most of it unchanged).
I wasn’t dead set on maintaining all HiVi drivers initially, until I narrowed my search again to just HiVi drivers and that’s how I landed on the M6N-B 6″ black aluminum/magnesium woofers. These things looked pretty awesome! A quick simulation in Unibox showed they were a perfect fit for a 47 liter boxed tuned to 42 Hz. I wasn’t a huge fan of the stamped steal basket, but otherwise it checked all the boxes. Not to mention they are actually one of the less expensive woofers in the 6-7″ variety. I mocked up a drawing of them paired with the F5 and the RT1C-A and they looked great together, one of the best combinations I had drawn. So with that, I made the decision to buy (4) M6N-B woofers and a new pair of RT1C-A tweeters. I elected not to buy new F5 midranges, but instead bought a small bottle of rubber-infused CA glue and repaired the ones I already had. I bought some rubber feet to clean up the bottom of the cabinets and a few crossover parts so I could tweak the crossover a bit as needed. Since now 24 years later I actually have the ability to measure these speakers and can make changes to the stock crossovers that were originally designed for these speakers.
About this time, I had removed all of the drivers and all of the crossover parts from the cabinet, I decided to refinish the cabinets to make them match some my other speakers I had built recently, like my center channel. This meant sanding down the entire cabinet and refinishing and re-staining them. I ended up going with a darker sort of Walnut look, and repainted the front/top/back in all black. I finished up everything with a few coats of a satin polyacrylic to give the speakers that nice and soft sheen that looks great on any speaker, since it’s not too flashy, but isn’t too dull. It’s sort of the Goldilocks of sheens, it’s just right. With the cabinets all cleaned up, I dropped in the drivers with the crossovers outside of the cabinet and that’s where the fun really began.