Maiden Flight of the Extra 300S FlatOut

I thought for sure it would go down in a fiery death spiral from which it would never return. Instead, upon being released from my hand, it flew straight and steady and climbed ever so slightly and slowly into the sky high above. With very little additional trimming, she was flying beautifully for the very first time, and it was awesome. My hands were shaking while flying, either from nerves, the cold, or both. There was almost zero wind, and what wind there was, was only blowing at 1-2 mph tops. So the conditions were perfect, which I had been waiting for all week, the sun had just set, though it had been raining all day and the ground was wet and black clouds loomed overhead, there wasn’t a drop in the sky, so I knew today was the day to make my maiden flight.

The first thing I learned with the whole experience of building and flying this plane is to never fly a plane in the same day that you just finished building it. Last week within 10 minutes gluing in the last piece, I had the plane in hand, throttle kicked up to high was ready to throw this thing into the great blue yonder. Well I chickened out that day, and I’m glad I did. Over the course of the week, I spent each night tweaking little things here and there with the plane and dialing in every aspect of it just right. Something I hadn’t done the same day I had “completed” it. I set the throws to match the templates exactly, I fixed the Z-bends and clevises to they moved and glided freely making the control surfaces move smoothly and effortlessly, I adjusted the CG better so it was almost right on (about 1/4″ forward from the recommended) and lastly I stuck a toothpick in the lower-bottom corner of the motor mount giving it just a little bit more up and right thrust (the built-in thrust angle didn’t quite match the recommended thrust angle, so I tweaked it with a toothpick and apparently after flying it, I tweaked it just enough). I believe these minor adjustments helped make the maiden flight a successful one, instead of a disaster. Not to mention is was a bit windy the day I finished it, but like most people, when the excitement builds after just finishing a plane, no matter how windy the day, it’s hard to keep from flying. My recommendation, don’t do it, just wait till the weather is right, and you’ve tweaked all the little details so that nothing can go wrong on that first flight.

The second thing I learned, I have no idea how to do 3D maneuvers. I did a couple of loops, some rolls, and flew inverted but that was about it. I tried hovering, which was a no go, it would either stall, or go over. I tried a knife edge and that too proved difficult without rolling over. Of course I was doing all these tricks as high up as I could still orient top from bottom giving me plenty of room to bail out. I learned my lesson on that one already with my Stryker – keep it high when attempting any kind of maneuver you don’t have 100% confidence you can do and have had a lot of practice doing. So I just flew around, did a few circles overhead, climbed and dove and just got a feel for how the plane flew. It was exciting, and the 300S flew very slow but with plenty of power from that little 370 brushed motor. I couldn’t find another 10×3.5 prop to replace the stock GP prop, so I bought an APC 10×3.8 prop. The extra pitch was noticeable just from my static tests, the plane pulled just a little harder with the APC prop then it did with the GP prop. My lipo and ESC held up fine as well. I didn’t do any current/power checks, but everything was just barely warm to the touch after I landed. The motor as well was just barely warm.

And speaking of landing, I didn’t so much land it as I did crash land. But it came away without a scratch. I felt the power dropping, so I did one last pass around to land coming into the wind and then LVC on the ESC kicked in and killed the prop. I really suck at dead sticking it too. I throttled down and back up again to gain a few more second of thrust but it was already too late. It was falling out of the sky, or rather, it was only a few feet off the ground, but I ended up going nose first into the ground right in the dirt. The prop saver did its job nicely and cushioned the landing just enough. But everything on the plane was fine, zero damage. Which is something I certainly did not expect as I was putting this fragile thing together. Anyway, time will tell how well she holds up, but for a maiden flight, I think it went very well. And now I least have an idea of flight time and exactly how much time I have from when I feel the power drop to land. No more dead stick landings for me.

I was impressed with the first flight. This plane flies slow, it’s stable in the air and has plenty of power to climb straight in the air doing rolls the whole way up. I never kicked in the high rates, and my low rates are currently set at 40%. The control surfaces all swing about +/- 20 degrees about their rest position according to the template provided in the kit. The high rates are set to 80% and give about +/- 50 degree throw. There’s plenty more in there for even more throw, but I figure until I figure out what I’m doing, I should keep even the high-rate setting kinda low. But that’s about it. If I can convince my wife to come out with me next time, I’ll be sure to get some video. But don’t expect anything fancy, I am the ultimate 3D novice.

12-15-07 update: So I’ve got about 10 flights on the 300S FlatOut and the more I fly it the more I love it. I don’t know if it’s just the experience of flying a 3D plane, or what, but it is so much fun to fly and it can do some crazy aerobatics. I’ve gotten the hang of landing better, but I did have one bad crash that broke the lower half of the fuselage which broke the wings off. It was nothing a little bit of CA didn’t fix right up, everything else survived just fine. I love how the plane can literally do a U-turn mid flight with only rudder control. Endless rolls are probably my favorite thing to do, especially while launching straight up, then coming out inverted and flying around upside down. I’ve been trying to do knife edges, but just don’t quite have the skills yet. Nor can I hover. But I can do that one trick where you just throw the rudder and ailerons hard left or hard right and plane does this crazy flip-roll thing (I just found out it’s called a snap roll), that’s pretty fun. I was also doing some fairly poor inverted harriers, but at least sort of doing them. I’ll get the hang of this plane soon, or at least I better, I have a feeling there might be a new plane under the Christmas tree this year, and that plane will be one I certainly will not want to crash into the ground. This 300S is giving me a lot of practice flying a plane with massive control surfaces and learning how to keep it in control. I just need lots and lots more practice.

12-20-2007 Update: Somewhere around my 15th flight, the little T-370 brushed motor finally gave up the ghost, it completely died on me today, mid-flight no less. I has just launched the plane on a fresh charge and about 2 minutes in all of the sudden the prop just quit. I was about 50 feet up or so, right over my house, and I was out behind my house when I was forced to make and emergency crash landing onto the street in my front yard. Fortunately there was a little bit of wind, so I just pointed the nose toward the wind, kept the plane completely level until it went out of site. As soon as it dropped below the height of my roof (remember, I’m in the back-backyard and plane is landing somewhere in my front yard with zero prop) I just kept the sticks right where they were as if I could still “see” the plane landing. I heard a small thud seconds later, so I hopped my fence, into my backyard through the gate and out into the front yard. I couldn’t believe it when I saw the thing sitting in the middle of the street right side up without any damage. Somehow I managed to dead-stick land the thing and completely blind and didn’t break a single thing. I gave the throttle a couple of quick throws and there was nothing. The ESC was blinking nominally, but the motor was gone. What a bummer. brushfailure_small.jpgI had read that the stock brushed motor doesn’t last long, and they were right. I didn’t even get 20 flights in. Upon inspecting the motor, it appears as though the little graphite brush-end portion broke off on just one of the brushes. See the picture to the left. I’ve had lots of brushed motors go bad, like in my Super Cub, and they usually just lose power and RPMs over time, it’s a gradual degradation, until you get to a point where you just can’t fly anymore. This was instantaneous, sudden failure. Up until now, I hadn’t even noticed that the motor was wearing out at all. It felt just as strong as the maiden flight last week. I’m just glad the plane landed fine and that no one got hurt and that no one ran over it while it was sitting there in the middle of my street before I was able to retrieve it. I’ve been looking at the brushless upgrade from Tower, the Rimfire 28-26-1000 out-runner motor along with a Castle Creations Thunderbird 18 look like a great combination to get me back in the air. Although for now, I think I’m just going to burn $7 on a new brushed motor. I’m thinking this was a rare occurrence and I’m hoping that a different brushed motor lasts me a little longer than 15 five-minute flights over a 1-1/2 week period. On the upside, I can do some pretty sweet knife edges now. So that’s a bonus. Also I ran across some videos that show you how to do some basic 3D maneuvers from the guys over at 3dHobbyShop.com. Check them out here.

12-23-2007 update: I found a 370 motor amongst all my RC junk and installed it yesterday. I got three flights in before the motor died mid-flight again. This time I landed without incident, but it’s definitely time to go brushless for sure.

12-24-2007 update: I wrote Great Planes Customer Support and they’re sending me a brand new motor. Thanks a lot GP!

01-03-2008 update: A package arrived in the mail today and it was quite a bit larger than the size of a motor. Instead of just sending me a motor, they sent me a whole new plane. I’m serious, I have a brand new Extra 300S in its box sitting in my living room, with a new motor inside. That is some amazing customer service. Thanks so much Great Planes, I didn’t expect that. I suppose it helped matters that it was Christmas Eve when I talked to one of the service reps, she must have been feeling generous. I certainly can’t complain, and Great Planes just won over a new customer.

Here’s a picture out behind my house where I fly (and usually land too).

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Great Planes FlatOut Extra 300S Build

small-300s.jpgOnce again I’ve fall prey to Tower Hobbies’ $10 off coupon tactics to get me to buy stuff I don’t need, but can’t pass up because hey, it’s like getting $10 for free. So I bought a Great Planes FlatOut Extra 300S for $19.99 (which came out to $9.99 after the 10 bucks off). I thought it would be a fun little plane to fly around the backyard when the wind is calm and just maybe I could start learning some 3D maneuvers on a plane that I won’t care too much if I destroy. It would also be a nice change of pace from flying my Stryker and just zooming by full speed over and over again (although, that’s still a lot of fun). I picked up a few other things to complete the plane, a GP 20C 640mAh li-po, the ElectriFly C-12 12A brushed ESC and a Futaba S3114 micro servo. I had two servos from my Super Cub aileron mod that I was going to use, but they turned out to be too big, and pretty heavy, so I dropped by the hobby shop in town and picked up (2) HS-55 micro servos (the transparent blue ones). I’m running the S3114 for the ailerons, and the HS-55’s for the elevator and rudder control. While I was at the hobby shop I jumped on RealFlight G3 and pulled up this plane and flew it around for a while. I certainly don’t know how to do any cool tricks, but I at least I got my first few crashes out of the way. =) The simulator flew very easy though and was completely controllable and somewhat predictable. As long as I don’t do anything crazy, I should be able to keep my real 300S up in the air.

So I placed the order Tuesday night and the package arrived on Friday. I’ve basically spent the last three days building this plane, so yeah, it took me longer than 3 hours to make. After placing the order and waiting for everything to arrive, I Googled FlatOut 300S and found several rants and raves about this plane, or the FlatOuts in general, and they were not good. I read several negative comments from forum members who bought this plane and had nothing good to say about it. I’d say about 75% of the posts were negative from people making comments about how the plane is garbage, waste of money, worst plane they ever owned, etc, etc. So then it made me feel bad because it had already shipped, it was in the mail with no way to return it. But I kept thinking what’s $10? I spend more than that on lunch which lasts all of 10 minutes. If the plane gives me at least 10 minutes of enjoyment, then it will have been worth it. Who cares what everybody else thinks about?

So what’s so bad about this plane? After spending several hours putting it together, here’s my short list of gripes:

Snap-in hinge system. It’s a pain to assemble and the C-clips break. Though I didn’t have any problems with the regular straight C-clips, out of 3 of 4 of the control arms’, the C-clip part broke upon clipping them onto the carbon spar. They give you one spare control arm so I didn’t have enough to replace them so I had to use them even though they were broken. The fix I found for this was to cut another slit in the control surface right next to the control arm and then glue in one of the spare straight C-clips and clip it onto the rod. This makes sense, and there really is no need for the control arm to actually be clipped to the rod, as long as there’s a clip very close to it. It doesn’t help when you’re working in a cold garage either, which may have contributed to the parts snapping. My suggestion is to keep the parts warm until you’re ready to snap them all together. Though the manual doesn’t seem to mention it anywhere, the parts tree does actually have a complete set of “standard” control arms (they push through a slot you would have to make in the control surface with a plastic retainer piece on the other side). They still have the big hole in the end for their custom plastic Z-bend part, but as least there’s the option to use a different set of control arms if all the regular ones get broken (say during assembly or after a few crashes.) That’s my guess as to what the parts are for anyway.

Z-bend system. The idea was to reduce slop and improve control. I think the only thing they did was make it a pain to assemble. I broke at least (2) Z-bend parts trying to press them into the control arms. They are so tiny and so fragile and once you finally get them popped into the servo arm, they are pretty tight, with no way to do a fit check. Good luck getting them out to sand them down or open the hole though. You’re more likely to break either the Z-bend of the control arm, or both, getting it back out, which I also did. But to their credit, there is no slop. Only now since they are so stiff, the control surfaces have a tendency to not center well, since they don’t have a super free flowing motion to them, in spite of the fancy clip/hinge system. I followed the Expert Tip which suggests removing any flashing on the inside hole, but I think the hole needs to be opened up just slightly as well. It’s probably my fault too for not ensuring that the Z-bend rotated freely inside the control arm or servo arms before just finishing the plane. I should have used my calipers to measure the ID and OD of each piece to ensure that there wasn’t any interference. [After writing this post, I decided to go back and pull off the servo arms and each Z-bend and re-do them all. It turns out the the stiffest linkages ended up measuring .092-.093″ on the inside hole and .095-.096″ on the outside of the Z-bend. So I rounded out the inside of the servo arms and each control arm to about .098″ and now the entire system moves much smoother and much more freely]. Even still pressing the carbon rods into the tiny hole in each Z-bend and then gluing them in place seems like an extremely permanent way to join the linkages. Just hope that your servo never needs to be mechanically centered again, I don’t see how you could do it. Not to mention it’s also a pain to press each one of those rods into the holes. Why didn’t they use a standard clevis and control horn linkage like every other plane?

I get the feeling they were so concerned about keeping the weight down, that they sacrificed a lot of areas in the plane that really could have benefited from being beefed up a bit or just designed differently or better yet, designed using proven, existing designs. However I am sure that my observations reveal the fact that I’m a novice flyer and builder. A more experienced pilot may have been able to foresee such problems and avoided them. All in the all, the plane went together just fine. It feels like the second I crash it, it will break into a million pieces. It just feels so fragile compared to my Super Cub or Stryker planes. One crash in the dirt and the thing is toast. So needless to say, even after finishing it, adjusting the CG, charging up my battery, setting my radio, and getting all ready to fly, I still haven’t flown it. I know the second I do, all that fun I had building it will simply have been for my good in gaining experience and nothing else. I’d say that if given the opportunity to own another Great Planes FlatOut, I would pass, but only based on the building experience alone. All the fancy engineering that went into their design may have looked great on paper, but in practice is just flatout fails in my opinion. However considering the price of the plane it’s definitely money well spent and worth trying out.

Okay enough griping, here’s some pics of this little wonder. I really actually like this plane a lot. It was fun to build, and so far I’m just having fun moving the ailerons, rudder, and elevator back and forth really fast. It actually is quite amazing. Also, since I’ve got two different kinds of servos, I definitely notice a difference in the HS-55’s vs. the Futaba S3114. Though not from how it behaves in the air, but simple how they respond on the ground. The HS-55’s are quiet and smooth and they sit quiet at rest. They do appear slightly slower than the S3114, as their specs dictate, but the Futaba is loud, you can just hear the gears spinning back and forth, it doesn’t seem to want to center right every time and it doesn’t want to still idle, it just buzzes non-stop. So If I were to do it again, I would go with the HS-55 servos all the way around, even though based on the specs of the two servos, one would be inclined to buy the S3114’s, which I did, and I wish I didn’t. And lastly though I haven’t flown it (I should have, today was dead calm outside) I already broke the prop just running the around out in my backyard. There must have been a rock on the ground or something because it snapped off just the end of the prop, and of course, I don’t have any spares. And Tower wants $8.99 just so ship a set of $3 props. I guess they’ll end up getting my $10 after all.

Great Planes Extra 300S FlatOut from Tower Hobbies.

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More Fun Flying With the Stryker & Servo Repairs

I’ve gotten a lot more flying time with the F-27C Stryker over the past week and all I can say is this plane is so much fun to fly. And I’m still using an old 8-cell pack too. I can’t wait to get my new 3S lipo pack. Today I finally decided to kick the dual-rates from low to high and see what she could do. Wow, what a difference! I can do multiple rolls one after another without the plane dropping when it’s upside down and it’s quick through each roll. With the rates set to low, I would have to add just a bit of elevator up to keep the nose up while it was inverted. It took timing it just right to do a nice roll. But with the rates set to high (which is still only 70% vs. 50%), it rolls so fast that it doesn’t have time to drop much at all while inverted. It definitely can get more squirrelly in the air but I was doing all sorts of crazy dives and S-loops and I don’t know the names of any real maneuvers, but I’ve been having a lot of fun flying this thing. I wish I had bought it sooner.

After over a dozen near-flawless flights in the last week, I did have one small mishap. I broke one of the gears in one of the servos after a seemingly harmless landing. See, I have yet to fly the Stryker at an actual park, you know, with grass and trees, instead I’ve been flying it out in the wash behind my neighborhood. There’s lots of open space, but not a lot of great places to land, except down in the wash which is mostly sand and rocks. As long as I land it in the sand, it’s fine, but this one time I came in a little short and landed over a few protruding rocks. It appeared to be a fine landing, only when I picked it up and moved the servos, the one elevon just clicked over and over. Upon inspecting the underside, there was small scratch or tear in the decal just under that servo where apparently a rock hit is just right and ended up chipping one tooth in one of the gears. Anxious to get back up and running, I threw in one of the servos out of the ailerons from my Super Cub that I had added the week before. This was only a temporary solution as I couldn’t get the throws of the two different servos to exactly match. I tried flying it one time and it was almost uncontrollable. Any amount of elevator cause the plane to dive and roll and climb and roll at the same time. I almost crashed on more than one occasion.

That’s when I decided to compare the stock 5-wire servo from my Super Cub with the 3-wire servo of the Stryker and see if maybe I could salvage the damaged servo with some parts from the Super Cub servo. As it would happen, the two servos mechanically are identical, and I was able to swap out the bad/chipped gear with one a good one from the other servo. See the pics below. I’ve now discovered the inherent good and bad sides of having more than one plane – the plane you’re not flying automatically becomes a “donor of parts” so to speak. Now my Stryker is flying like a dream again, while the Super Cub sits in the garage torn to pieces, missing half its servos and completely unflyable. Oh well, it’s not like I can fly two planes at the same time anyway. This weekend I got a lot of great flights in and have been having a great time with this new plane. Next week I am going to buy a new 3S lipo pack, probably going to pick up a FlightPower Lite 2100mAh from Tower Hobbies. Or possibly the 25C 2170mAh pack for some extra current-pushing power. I may get some video up soon too, although with all the 165 mph Stryker videos already on YouTube, my whimpy little stock Stryker won’t look like much. But for now I am completely happy with it, it’s plenty fast for me and does just about everything I know how to do while flying. The motor stays super cool and I know with this setup the plane should last me a long time.

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Finding the Right Lipo for the Stryker

Here’s what I’ve found out about getting a lipo pack for my Stryker:

Compartment will easily fit a pack that measures 4.5″ x 1.34″ x 1.5″ (LxWxH). With some modifications, a longer pack could fit, however the 4.5″ appears to be long enough to fit just about any pack that falls within the other 2 dimensions. The recommended pack from Hobbyzone is a 2200mAh pack that weights 5.6 oz. or 159 grams. I don’t really want to buy the stock pack because it’s only rated for 27A continuous (12C) and it’s pretty pricey. I think there’s a lot of good 15C-20C packs available that are the same price or cheaper. Here’s what I’ve found so far from CheapBatteryPacks.com, Maxamps.com, TowerHobbies.com and Hobby-Lobby.com I mention only these suppliers simply because they are people who I have purchased from in the past and have been happy with the products they provide. I know eBay is full of cheap lipos, but I don’t even want to go there. I’m also only comparing 3S packs, as this is going into a bone-stock F-27C Stryker.

First from CheapBatteryPacks.com, everything that Mike carries sorted from lowest to highest price:

Vislero 3s 2100mah (cheapest pack I can find)
Dimensions: 100 x 34 x 21mm [3.94 x 1.34 x 0.83 in.]
Weight: 150 gms. [5.29 oz.]
Price $39.95 (no plug)
Factory C Rate 15C – (31 amps) Continuous
Burst C Rate 24C – (50 amps) under 10 seconds

PolyRC 2100mah 3S LP Series (decent pack, decent price)
Dimensions 113 x 34 x 25mm [4.45 x 1.34 x 0.98 in.]
Weight 154 gms. [5.43 oz.]
Price $59.88 (no plug)
Factory C Rate 18C – (37 amps) continuous
Burst C Rate 27C – (56 amps) under 10 seconds

Elite 3S 2100mah Cell (this is high-current pack)
Dimensions 96 x 34 x 26mm [3.78 x 1.34 x 1.02 in.]
Weight 160 gms. [5.65 oz.]
Price $59.99 (no plug)
Factory C Rate 25C – (52 amps) continuous
Burst C Rate 35C – (73 amps) under 10 seconds

PolyRC 2500mah 3S LP Series (the highest mAh pack that fits)
Dimensions 113 x 34 x 27mm [4.45 x 1.34 x 1.06 in.]
Weight 181 gms. [6.39 oz.]
Price $65
Factory C Rate 18C – (45 amps) continuous
Burst C Rate 27C – (67 amps) under 10 seconds

Thunder Power TP 2100mah 3s
Dimensions 100 x 34 x 20mm [3.94 x 1.34 x 0.79 in.]
Weight 142 gms. [5.01 oz.]
Price $69.95
Factory C Rate 15C – (31 amps) continuous
Burst C Rate 24C – (50 amps) under 10 seconds

Thunder Power TP Extreme 2200 3s
Dimensions 107 x 37 x 25mm [4.21 x 1.46 x 0.98 in.]
Weight 170 gms. [6.00 oz.]
Price $79.99
Factory C Rate 25C – (55 amps) continuous
Burst C Rate 50C – (110 amps) under 10 seconds

01-03-2008: This is pack I ended up getting. I actually bought it for my Brio 10 knowing it would drop right into my Stryker. I have yet to fly it, but it fits perfectly and should provide plenty of juice.

PolyRC 2000mah 3s 30C Lipo (the highest C-rated pack that fits)
Dimensions 106 x 35 x 25mm [4.17 x 1.38 x 0.98 in.]
Weight 184 gms. [6.49 oz.]
Price $86.34
Factory C Rate 30C – (60 amps) continuous
Burst C Rate 50C – (100 amps) under 10 seconds

Maxamps.com has this pack for $63.99:

Lipo 2100HV 3S 11.1V Pack
NEW COPPER TAB CELLS! (no plug)
2100mah Capacity
11.1 Volts
34mm X 98mm X 24mm
20C Constant(42 amps)
165 grams

Packs from Tower Hobbies:

FlightPower Evo Lite 2100 3S 11.1V
Size: 4.4 x 1.3 x 0.83″ (113 x 34 x 21mm)
Weight: 5.6oz (158g)
Capacity: 2100mAh
Continuous Discharge Current: 18C
Rated Voltage: 11.1V
Number of Cells in Series: 3
Price $62.99

FlightPower Evo 25 2170 3S 11.1V
Size: 4.3 x 1.3 x .94″ (110 x 34 x 24mm)
Weight: 6.1oz (174g)
Capacity: 2170mAh
Continuous Discharge Current: 25C
Rated Voltage: 11.1V
Number of Cells in Series: 3
Price $76.99

Great Planes ElectriFly Power Series Lithium Polymer 2100mAh
Capacity: 2100mAh
Continuous Discharge Current: 42A (20C)
Discharge Lead: 12AWG 3.1″ (80mm) long wire w/Deans Ultra Female Plug
Charge Lead: 24AWG 1.6″ (40mm) long wire w/Balance Connector
Pack Dimensions: 104x36x29mm (4.09×1.42×1.14″)
Weight: 6.14oz (174g)
Price $69.99

Hobby-Lobby.com has these packs (as well as several of the packs already mentioned above):

Thunder Power TP20703
3 Cell 2070 mAh “eXtreme”
11.1V LiPoly Battery Pack
Size: 4-3/8″ x 1-5/16″ x 1″
Weight: 5.8 oz.
Price: $79.99

PolyQuest 20
PQ21503 “Twenty” 3 Cell 11.1V
2150 mAh LiPo Pack
Price: $77.90
Size: 4 x 1-3/8 x 1-1/8″
Weight: 6.3 oz.

The average price is about $60-$80 with the Vislero pack coming in as the cheapest at only $40 and the PolyRC 30C pack being the most expensive due to its 100A discharge capability. Unless I were planning on upgrading several other components in my Stryker (the ESC is only rated to carry 25A) any one of these packs should be just fine. So I’ll probably just just go with the cheapest. However, I have a $10.00 off coupon from Tower Hobbies, so the FlightPower EVO 2100 looks tempting at only $52.99 after taking into account the coupon. Something tells me it might be a better pack than the Vislero one and it’s only $13 more. I haven’t really read bad things about either pack though, so it may come down to just a money thing. The EVO pack is approved for 2C charge rates and has a higher C rating although it is 8 grams heavier, it weighs exactly the same as the stock Hobbyzone pack so the CG should be spot on with this pack.

Anyway, that’s what I’ve found out so far with respect to a few lipos for the Stryker. I’ll be Sure and post a write-up on what I actually end up buying, until then, I’m still having fun with my 5-minute flight times and that old 8-cell battery pack. Also, I plan on updating this post as I find new/better packs.

Bought the TP eXtreme 2200

Update 01-16-2008: So I ended up buying the Thunder Power eXtreme 2200mAh V2 from Mike over at CheapBatteryPacks.com. I soldered a set of Ultra Deans and dropped it in my Stryker and it fits great, it’s super snug. I added a very small piece of styrofoam to the very front of the battery compartment to keep the battery as far back as possible. I needed to add 1/2 oz of weight (with some Play-Dough) in the back to get the CG right, and even then it’s still just slightly nose heavy. The Stryker doesn’t seem to care about the extra weight though, it absolutely screams and the run time is great. I’m not sure how long it lasts but it’s at least 10-15 minutes. And the battery comes down just barely warm. It’s a great battery for the Stryker and provides plenty of current without being taxed in the slightest. I’m debating moving up to a 6×5 prop to get a little extra speed. I know the battery can take it, it’s the motor and ESC that will need to be watched. As it is now, the motor is barely warm after a full run, so I think it can take more.

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Great Maiden Flight of the Parkzone Stryker F-27C

f27c-stryker.jpgLast night I picked up a Parkzone Stryker F-27C PNP (Plug-N-Play) from my local hobby shop. This will be my second plane, the first being a Hobbyzone Super Cub. The Cub has been such a great plane, that I decided I wanted to stick with the same type type of foam park flyers and the Hobbyzone/Parkzone team does a pretty good job throwing some decent planes together at reasonable prices with lots of spare parts that are readily available at my LHS. I had originally planned on getting an ARF Great Planes sport flyer or 3D plane, one of the balsa ones, but I knew I would crash it into a million pieces 5 minutes into flight. Also a lot the planes I was looking at were recommended as a 3rd plane and I needed something for a beginner with some experience (Hey, I at least added ailerons to my Cub and got some aileron experience) and wanted something that was better suited as a 2nd plane. Well after flying the Stryker for the first time today, I can say that it definitely makes a great second plane. Most people don’t recommend it as a first plane, and I agree, but as a second plane, it flies easily yet with control and authority.

Quick specs on my setup:

  • Stryker F-27C PNP
  • 6-pole 1880 kv Brushless Motor Stock
  • 25-Amp E-Flight Pro ESC Stock
  • 8-cell NiMH CheapBatteryPacks Battery Pack – my 2100mAh 3S lipo didn’t fit :(
  • Futaba 6EXP Radio
  • Futaba R126F Receiver

  • I was bummed that the 3S lipo I have didn’t fit, so I resorted to using just an 8-cell NiMH pack. For others looking into getting a lipo pack, the dimensions of the battery area is 4.5″ x 1.34″ x 1.5″ (LxWxH). Even with a whimpy 9.6V, I was still petrified to fly this thing after giving full throttle just a few times in my living room. It sounded so loud, so fast, and the thrust felt crazy. Still, 9.6V isn’t much less than 11.1V, and it flew awesome anyway. The flight time was probably around 5 minutes. It was also a great way to ease into the speed of the Stryker after being used to the relatively slow-flying Super Cub. It screamed overhead with the wind doing rolls and was just a blast to fly. Besides, now I will have something to upgrade to. I was so nervous though, my hands were shaking when I first got her in flight. I thought for sure I was going to put this thing into the ground on that first launch. I took advantage of the open area behind my house where a huge wash runs through. The water over the years has carved away a nice 15 foot cliff along the entire bank, so I stood up high just looking over the cliff and tossed the Stryker over the edge. It was a good thing too, because I launched with no throttle, and when I threw the stick, it hesitated just for a second and the plane dropped below the level ground I was standing on and into the open area of the wash, then the prop kicked in full blast and she climbed and climbed and I was flying. I only needed a few clicks of the trims and she was flying straight and level with ease. It was awesome, to say the very least.

    The night before I set up my Futaba 6EXP radio, which along with programming the ESC, took just a little bit of work to figure things out. I set all my D/R settings and throws exactly as defined in the Stryker manual. I realize now why one of those throw gauges would be so handy. I just used a pair of calipers and got everything as close as I could. I maidened with the dual rates set in the low setting, which most people recommend doing when learning to fly a new plane. I didn’t have any issues with controlling the Stryker at all, even with what appeared to be very little throw, nearly half what the servos are probably capable of giving me. I could still maneuver, spin, loop and bank with authority. But there is plenty of room to go up, so I can’t wait as my skills improve, to start dialing in more throw. The clevises on the control horns of the elevons can also be adjusted for even more throw.

    Here’s a quick setup of my radio and ESC (CH1 Ailerons, CH2 Elevator and CH3 throttle):

  • Servo Reversing: CH1-NOR, CH2-NOR, CH3-REV (interestingly enough, the throttle needed to be reversed in order to arm the ESC, even though the manual specifically said to make sure the radio was set to normal, or no servo reversing on this channel).
    D/R: CH1 & CH2, 50% Low and 70% High (there’s plenty more room for crazy acrobatics with this setup)
    EPA: CH1 100%, CH2 105% and CH3 100%
    TRIM: CH1 -4 and CH2 +20 (there’s that little bit of up-elevon needed to make it fly level as my CG was fore a bit due to the heavy NiMH battery)
    ELVN: CH1 100% and CH2 80% (this setting allows the elevons to have more throw in aileron mode than they do when acting as elevators. It is specific in the manual that the aileron throw be a little higher than the elevator throw. It works great for me.)
    ESC – Cell Count: 2S or NiMH, brake inactive, 4-pole and greater motors, Input Range Auto set.
  • And that’s about it. My battery pack is all charged up so I’m going out for another flight! I need to start learning some cool maneuvers and get good at just flying this bad boy. I can say that I am super happy with this plane, as the first flight went perfectly, no crashes, and even the landing was perfect. Which is more than I can say for how well I’ve flown my Super Cub on occasion. It is definitely a super fun plane to fly, and I can’t wait to get more air time flying it.

    More info on the Stryker F27-C
    The Official Hobbyzone Web Site
    The Super-Long Darkside Thread on RCUniverse.com

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    How To: Super Cub Aileron Mod

    I got a new radio last week and decided to retrofit my Super Cub with a couple of 3-wire servos and add ailerons. I pulled the servos out of my Mini LST truck and my RC18T. I don’t know what kind the MLST ones are, they are pretty small, smaller than my HS-81MG, about 0.9″ x 0.9″ and probably about the size of the HS-55 servos. But they work perfectly for ailerons. I fixed the rudder with the stock servo, and installed the HS-81 for the elevator. If I had another servo, I would also run the rudder, but for now it’s just fixed and flies just fine without it.

    I measured and cut the ailerons with a razor blade 12″ x 1.75″ with the inside edge 7″ away from the center of the wing. I bought a set of replacement control horns for the SC and installed them in each of the ailerons (the same ones that go into the rudder and elevator). The pushrods are 0.047″ diameter steel which I just bent into a “S” in each end and fit into each of the control arms and servo horns. There is no mechanical adjustment this way, so I just made sure that the servos were dead center with the trims on the radio at +/- 0 and then bent the ends just perfectly. I messed up one, so I just redid it and then with my radio I dialed in each servo so they were completely flush.

    I used tape for the aileron hinges which as far as I can tell is simple, effective, and works great. When cutting away the notch for the aileron to rotate up/down, make sure you do it in the underside of wing and not the top-side of the wing or in the aileron. You want to maintain a nice smooth airframe on the top of the wing. I cut cutouts in each wing just the size of each servo and taped over them to hold them in place. Each servo runs to its own channel on the radio, and then I use a setting called Flaperon. With the switch down, I’m in normal aileron mode where each aileron opposes the other at all times. Then I can flip the Flaps switch up and both ailerons are thrown down, perfect for making great landings and takeoffs. Let’s see a single servo aileron setup do that! This also allows me to fine tune each aileron since I don’t have any mechanical adjustment in this area. This new radio is sweet, it can do so much. It’s a Futaba 6EXP by the way. I plan on doing a write-up on it later, but my first impressions are this is a great radio.

    After I got everything installed and the ailerons working, I was testing it out when all of a sudden the stock 480 motor just died. I tried running straight off a couple of volts and it was just dead. So I did a quick replacement with my old Speed 480 BB Race motor. Though my past experience suggests this isn’t a great motor for the SC, I had to give it a shot because I wanted to try out my cool aileron mod.

    And so this morning the wind was calm so I took her out for her first flight with the new radio, ailerons, new ESC, and the new Speed 480 motor. I checked all my trims, checked for proper movement of everything and gave her a throw. I quickly realized that my elevator servo was reversed – up was down and down was up. Ooops! I was so busy making sure that the ailerons were moving properly that I completely overlooked making sure the elevator was moving properly. I made an attempt to land while instantly trying to retrain myself and not throw the plane straight into the ground. I managed to bring it sound safely thinking to myself how did I miss that?? I reprogrammed my radio and a minute later had the elevator moving up and down properly as it should. At least it was turning left and right the way it should. So I gave it another toss and she flew perfectly. The plane definitely handles differently without the rudder. The plane gets sideways really easily when turning but still handles great. I’ve been practicing my barrel rolls, which though this plane can do, it’s doesn’t do them very well. The new motor lacks much power, so the plane feels kinds slow, but the ailerons work great and it feels like a completely new plane and it’s still very easy to fly. Now I just need to work on my power options, maybe go brushless?

    So here’s a few pics and some video.

    ailerons1.jpg ailerons2.jpg ailerons4.jpg ailerons3.jpg ailerons5.jpg ailerons7.jpg

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